
You can stop a roof leak like this in less than three hours by opening the ceiling, tracing the water path, running a water test, and repairing each failure point in order. You will need plaster cutting tools, a hose, flashing materials, sealant, foam, and replacement screws sized 50 mil instead of 20 mil. This step-by-step guide follows the same kind of repair shown by Jim’s Roofing and explains exactly what to check, fix, and test. If you are not sure which of Jim’s divisions can help, start with the full list of Jim’s Group services.
Watch Obie diagnose and fix the roof leak above, or keep reading for the step-by-step breakdown.
What You Will Need
For this repair, the materials and tools mentioned in the video were:
- Access to the leaking ceiling area
- Plaster cutting tools
- Hose for water testing
- Flashing removal tools
- Screws
- Bigger replacement screws, 50 mil instead of 20 mil
- Sealant to seal the holes
- Foam to close the gap at the back
- “Value seal” or “value membrane”, as spoken in the video
- Materials to reseal the downpipe
- Extra flashing
- Materials to seal the ridge cap
- Gutter cleaning tools
- A plasterer for ceiling repair after testing
If the problem turns out to be bigger than a quick DIY check, it makes sense to get a qualified roofer involved early rather than risking more internal damage. That is where a backed service process like the Jim’s Work Guarantee matters.

Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Cut the Plaster to Find the Exact Leak Point
Obie’s first move was to cut the plaster so he could see where the water was coming from. In this case, the team needed to confirm whether the leak was tied to the bathroom area, the flashing, or the downpipe.
Step 2: Check for More Than One Source
Once the area was opened up, Obie found there were actually two leaks. Joel Kleber, host of the Jim’s Group Podcast, explained that one was through the bathroom and one was through the roof.
Step 3: Run a Water Test
Before doing the full repair, Obie used a water test. That helps confirm the leak path instead of guessing and patching the wrong spot.
Step 4: Remove the Flashing and Failed Screws
After identifying the problem, Obie removed the flashing and took out the old screws. He found that the screws were too small, had rusted out, and had no rubber seals, so water was leaking straight through them.
Step 5: Seal the Old Holes and Fit Larger Screws
Once the old screws were out, the team sealed up the holes and installed bigger screws, using 50 mil instead of 20 mil. That gave the repaired section a better hold and closed up the old entry points.
Step 6: Add Foam and Membrane at the Back
The next fix was to put foam right at the back so it attached to the roof sheet and the wall. Obie said this was paired with “value seal, value membrane,” so water could not pass straight through anymore.

Step 7: Reseal the Downpipe and Add Flashing
Obie then resealed the downpipe and added flashing where it had come off the wall. This was one of the key leak points in the job. If you are dealing with recurring water entry and need to book someone in, the quickest next step is usually through the Jim’s contact page.
Step 8: Seal the Ridge Cap and Wall Junctions
The team also needed to seal the ridge cap and make sure the flashing where the cap and wall separated from the weatherboard was properly sealed. In this repair, those junction points were part of the leak path.
Step 9: Clean the Gutter and Clear the Blockage
Obie pointed out that dirt blocking the flashing could cause water to overflow inside the house during heavy rain. Cleaning the gutter and keeping that area clear is part of the fix, not an optional extra. For homeowners trying to work out what other maintenance support is available around the home, the broader Jim’s Group services page is a useful place to start.
Step 10: Finish With a Final Water Test
The last step was another water test. Obie said the leak had stopped completely, and nothing came through after the repairs were done. Joel also said the team found and fixed the issue in less than three hours.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Assuming There Is Only One Leak
Joel said there were two leaks in this job, not one. If you stop after finding the first problem, you can miss the second entry point.
Patching the Ceiling Before Finding the Source
Do not repair the plaster until you know exactly where the water is entering. Obie cut the plaster first so he could trace the issue properly.
Reusing Rusted or Undersized Screws
The original screws were too small, rusted out, and had no rubber. Leaving them in place would have led to more leaks.
Ignoring Dirt Build-Up Around the Flashing
Obie pointed out that dirt blocking the flashing could make water overflow inside the house during heavy rain. Keep the area clear.
Skipping the Final Water Test
A repair is not confirmed until you test it. The final water test proved that nothing was still getting through. That kind of proper sign-off is also why many homeowners look for work backed by the Jim’s Work Guarantee.
When to Call a Professional
Call a professional if the leak is near a wall junction, bathroom, downpipe, ridge cap, or flashing detail, and you cannot safely trace the water path yourself. You should also get help if the roof sheet does not reach the wall properly, the flashing has separated, the screws are rusted out, or the leak keeps coming back.
This job shows how one internal leak can actually involve several fault points across the roof line. If you want someone to inspect it properly, make an enquiry through the Jim’s contact page or call 131 546.

Frequently Asked Questions About Roof Leaks
Start by opening the affected area if needed, then follow the water path and run a controlled water test. In this case, cutting the plaster and testing the area helped confirm the source.
Yes. In this job, the flashing was dismantled, partly separated from the wall, and was not technically compliant, which allowed water in.
Yes. Obie identified a leaking downpipe as one of the problem areas and resealed it as part of the repair.
They fail when they are too small, rusted out, loose, or missing the rubber washers that stop water from getting through.
Obie explained that strong rain combined with dirt blocking the flashing could force water to overflow inside the house.
A long time. Joel said this home was built 15 years ago, and the problem may have been happening the whole time without being properly sorted. If the issue has been lingering, it is worth checking the full range of Jim’s Group services to find the right support quickly.



